Old Mission vs. Leelanau: Which Peninsula Is Right for You?

Traverse City sits at the center of one of America's most distinctive wine regions, flanked by two narrow peninsulas that jut into the cold, blue expanse of Grand Traverse Bay. On the east, Old Mission Peninsula cuts 18 miles north through the water like a blade. On the west, Leelanau Peninsula spreads across a broader, more varied landscape of hills, inland lakes, cherry orchards, and charming small towns. Both are world-class wine destinations. Both sit astride the 45th parallel — the same latitude as Bordeaux and Burgundy. And both will reward you with exceptional wine, stunning scenery, and genuine Michigan hospitality.

But they are not the same experience. Choosing one over the other — or deciding how to split your time between them — can make the difference between a good trip and a great one. This guide breaks down everything you need to know to pick the peninsula that's right for you.

The 45th parallel runs right through Traverse City — the same latitude as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Willamette Valley. It's not a coincidence that world-class wine grows here.

The Geography: Two Very Different Shapes

Understanding the geography is the first step to understanding the wines — and the experience of visiting each peninsula.

Old Mission Peninsula is narrow, dramatic, and linear. At its widest it's barely two miles across. From the base near Traverse City to the lighthouse at the tip, it's an 18-mile drive along a single spine of high ground, with vineyards dropping off steeply to Grand Traverse Bay on both sides. Almost every tasting room has a bay view. On a clear day, you can see Michigan's Sleeping Bear Dunes across the water to the west. The geography is intimate and focused — you're never more than a few minutes from the next winery, and there's essentially one road in and one road out.

Leelanau Peninsula is broader, more varied, and less obvious. It's roughly 30 miles long and 15 miles wide at its widest point, encompassing a diverse patchwork of vineyards, cherry and apple orchards, forested hills, inland lakes, and several distinct small towns — Suttons Bay, Northport, Leland, Lake Leelanau. The wine trail here requires a little more navigation, but the reward is a richer sense of exploration. You might pass a U-pick cherry farm between wineries, stumble onto a lake beach for a picnic, or wander through Leland's historic Fishtown district.

The Wines: What Each Peninsula Does Best

Both peninsulas benefit from the same fundamental terroir advantage: Grand Traverse Bay acts as a thermal regulator, absorbing summer heat and releasing it slowly through the fall, extending the growing season and protecting vines from early frost. But subtle differences in soil, elevation, and microclimate create distinct wine personalities on each side.

Old Mission Peninsula Wines

Old Mission is best known for aromatic whites and cool-climate reds. The narrow peninsula with its steep lakeside slopes and well-drained soils is particularly well suited to Riesling — and the Old Mission versions are among the finest in the Midwest, ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet late-harvest and ice wine styles. Chateau Grand Traverse, which pioneered winemaking on the peninsula in 1974, has built its reputation almost entirely on Riesling, and rightfully so.

You'll also find excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio here. Chateau Chantal produces particularly notable sparkling wines alongside its estate reds and whites. Peninsula Cellars, housed in a charming 1896 schoolhouse, offers one of the most approachable and diverse lineups on the peninsula, including a celebrated Gewürztraminer. For serious Pinot Noir, Mari Vineyards — perched at the northern tip with panoramic views — is making some of the most ambitious red wines in Michigan.

Leelanau Peninsula Wines

Leelanau's wider, more varied terrain produces a correspondingly broader range of wines. The peninsula is known for Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, and increasingly impressive Cabernet Franc. It's also home to Michigan's finest sparkling wine producer: L. Mawby, a small-production specialist whose méthode champenoise sparklers have earned national recognition.

Black Star Farms is Leelanau's anchor winery — a full agricultural estate with a luxury inn, creamery, and distillery alongside its acclaimed wines. Good Harbor Vineyards produces some of the peninsula's most food-friendly whites. Shady Lane Cellars, in a converted 19th-century fieldstone building, makes elegant estate wines with a focus on single-vineyard expression. For adventurous palates, Ciccone Vineyard & Winery — yes, owned by Madonna's father — crafts some genuinely interesting Nebbiolo and Sangiovese alongside the expected cool-climate varieties.

The Experience: Vibe, Pacing, and What to Expect

Beyond the wines themselves, the two peninsulas offer meaningfully different day-trip experiences.

Old Mission: Focused, Scenic, Easy to Navigate

Old Mission is the easier peninsula for a first-time visitor. The wineries line up along M-37, the peninsula's main road, making it straightforward to plan a linear tasting route without doubling back. Most tasting rooms are open daily from late spring through fall, with many offering formal seated tastings alongside walk-up bar service. The views are consistently spectacular — almost every winery has a deck or patio overlooking the bay — making it an ideal destination for a leisurely afternoon.

Old Mission tends to be slightly more polished and visitor-ready than Leelanau. Tasting fees are common (usually $10–$20, often waived with a purchase), and the overall vibe skews toward romantic couples getaways and wine-focused day trips. It's a great choice if you want maximum scenery per winery visit and don't mind a somewhat linear experience.

Leelanau: Exploratory, Varied, Full-Day Adventure

Leelanau rewards the visitor with more time and curiosity. The peninsula's wineries are more spread out, the roads more winding, and the discoveries more varied — a farm stand selling cherry jam between wineries, a lighthouse at the northern tip near Northport, a kayak rental shop on the shores of Lake Leelanau. Plan a full day minimum; ideally two.

The overall vibe on Leelanau is slightly more casual and agricultural. You'll find farm tasting rooms alongside polished estates, and the pace is gentler. It's particularly well-suited to groups, as many wineries have large outdoor spaces and more relaxed policies around food and picnicking. It's also the better peninsula for finding smaller, under-the-radar producers who haven't made the travel magazines yet.

Side-by-Side Comparison

	Old Mission Peninsula	Leelanau Peninsula
Size	18 miles long, ~2 miles wide	30 miles long, up to 15 miles wide
Wineries	9–10 tasting rooms	20+ tasting rooms
Navigation	Linear, easy (one main road)	More complex, rewarding
Best wines	Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sparkling	Pinot Noir, Cab Franc, Sparkling, Riesling
Vibe	Polished, romantic, scenic	Exploratory, casual, agricultural
Time needed	Half day to full day	Full day to two days
Best for	First-timers, couples, bay views	Groups, adventurers, longer stays
Don't miss	Mari Vineyards, Chateau Chantal	L. Mawby, Black Star Farms, Shady Lane

Can You Do Both in One Day?

Technically yes — and many visitors do. From the base of Old Mission Peninsula to the southern tip of Leelanau is less than 30 minutes by car through Traverse City. A common approach is to do Old Mission in the morning (it's closer to downtown TC if you're coming from the south) and cross to Leelanau in the afternoon, anchoring the day at one of the larger tasting rooms near Suttons Bay or Lake Leelanau.

The risk is rushing. Wine tasting on a schedule — especially if you're driving — can quickly feel like an obligation rather than a pleasure. Our honest recommendation: pick one peninsula per day, taste at three to five wineries, linger over a view, and eat something good. You'll remember that day far more fondly than the day you tried to hit twelve wineries across both peninsulas.

If you have two days, do one peninsula each day. If you only have one day, choose based on the comparison above — Old Mission if you want the quintessential scenic wine experience with minimal planning, Leelanau if you're willing to explore and want the broader range of wines and atmospheres.

Planning Your Visit

The Traverse City wine region is at its best from late May through October. Peak season is July through September, when nearly all tasting rooms are open daily and the bay is warm enough to swim. Spring (May–June) offers a quieter, more intimate experience with shorter lines and more time with the winemakers. Fall harvest season (late September through October) is arguably the most beautiful time to visit — the vine leaves turn gold and crimson against the blue water, and many wineries release their newest vintages.

Tasting fees run $10–$20 per person at most wineries, typically waived with a bottle purchase. Most tasting rooms appreciate (and some require) reservations on weekends in peak season. If you're planning to taste at four or more wineries, consider booking a guided tour so you're not managing a designated driver situation — several excellent tour operators run daily routes on both peninsulas.

Whether you spend a day on Old Mission, two days on Leelanau, or a long weekend doing justice to both, you're visiting one of America's genuinely special wine regions — one that most of the country hasn't discovered yet. That won't last forever. Come now, while the tasting rooms are still unhurried, the views are still unspoiled, and the winemakers still have time to talk.